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1986, Museum Documentation Systems
In the western division of labor, traditionally, domestic spaces are considered to be inferior to public spaces. Food preparation is simply a necessary function for the satisfaction of basic needs. It is also a task that within the family is the responsibility of the feminine elements and generally does not receive any social recognition or financial compensation. Therefore, food preparation belongs to the field of the feminine, the domestic. And the private. In opposition, there are public occupations, particularly policies, which traditionally correspond to the superior masculine element. One of the subversive factors of Laura Esquivel's work constitutes, precisely, the conversion of the kitchen into a battlefield and the affirmation of political identities, displacing the traditional consideration of a private domestic action space, to an action space National public Women who participate in food preparation are part of the active agents that build the Mexican national identity, through the preparation and intake of food. Fast as Desire [2] cooking is the place where women responsible for food preparation exercise their power in defiance of the traditional forces that seek to maintain food preparation within the framework of purely domestic and inferior chores. In Como agua Tita uses her power to transform raw materials into exquisite delicacies, as a quasi-magical, but totally corporeal, power in a constant challenge to her mother's dictatorial attitude. For its part in So fast, the kitchen is, again, a battlefield between the pre-Columbian forces and the European colonizers, through dialogues between the Mayan grandmother and the Spanish wife. This constant, veiled battle between women with different levels of power, or between the importance that society artificially attaches to the activities assigned to the sexes, and therefore to the sexes themselves, and equally between cultures considered superior and inferior, constitutes one of the most significant elements in Laura Esquivel's literature. According to Lillo and Sarfati-Arnaud, this management and subversion of roles constitutes a "twist" -in the sense of distorting or distorting understood concepts -that plays with the traditional concept of space and gender and confirms Laura Esquivel's intention to marginalize the center and centralize the margins. It also confirms its intention to grant women occupied in food preparation a central role in the constitution of national identity. In other words, the author converts the sacred figure of the country and the feeling of citizens for their nation, patriotism, into an entity that is prepared in the kitchen. Laura Esquivel moves the kitchen to the National Museum, or vice versa. When food preparation is constituted in an identity producing artifact, food preparation is positioned at the same level as the National Museum
Open Access Journal of Archaeology & Anthropology
In the western division of labor, traditionally, domestic spaces are considered to be inferior to public spaces. Food preparation is simply a necessary function for the satisfaction of basic needs. It is also a task that within the family is the responsibility of the feminine elements and generally does not receive any social recognition or financial compensation. Therefore, food preparation belongs to the field of the feminine, the domestic. And the private.
Romance Quarterly, 2023
Bulletin of Spanish Studies, 2024
For feminists, the kitchen is a symbol of the world of traditionally marginalized woman. It is a space that associated with repetitive work, lacking any "real" creativity, and having no possibility for the fulfilment of women's existential needs, individualization or self-expression. Latin American women writer Laura Esquivel through her debut novel Like Water for Chocolate: A Novel in Monthly Installments with Recipes, Romances and Home Remedies (Como agua para chocolate: Novela de entregas mensuales can recetas, amores y remedios caseros ) expresses a different, quite parodic and critical gender perspective that women can use food as a path to power and a part of a cultural cauldron involving sensuality and machismo. This paper is focuses on how food imagery is particularly important in the novel as a voice for women and their abundant emotions.
Quem me dera ser onda by Serena J. Rivera
The aim of this article is to offer a reading of the relationship between food and memory in Las Cartas Que No Llegaron, a novel by the Uruguayan writer Mauricio Rosencof. The article particularly highlights the importance of flavours and places of a culinary tradition in the process of reconstruction of a family’s identity and history. It also explores the relationship between the need of memories and the search for one’s childhood’s flavours within a Jewish family torn by persecutions and forced migrations, walking the difficult path of integration through hunger and poverty, and finally experiencing the years of Uruguayan dictatorship, with new separations, isolation and torture. This study especially analyses motifs such as the following: the symbolic value of some recurring meals; the kitchen as a favoured and metaphoric space where memories are recalled, and family bonds are strengthened; the act of cooking as maternal language and rituality; the clash between the re-surfacing of childhood’s flavours and hunger, grief and death in the death camp. Parallellisms between eating food and reading imaginary letters by far away relatives, between cooking and writing, are also pointed out. The essay opens with a cultural and anthropological overview of the migrations of the Jewish people towards Uruguay in the first decades of the 20th century; it subsequently analyzes the text through a methodological approach mainly – but not exclusively – based on symbolic and psychoanalytic criticism. An accurate reading of Las Cartas Que No Llegaron allows to understand how the process of reconstruction of one’s personal identity and family history is entwined with the subtle relationships between speech and nourishment, language and food, memory and culinary tradition.
Gender & History, 2022
This article seeks to reframe the stakes of current discourses at the intersection of Mexican cooking and modernist gastronomy. Through a decolonial approach to gender and visuality, (counter)visuality, this article demonstrates how and to what extent 'modern' and 'traditional' Mexican cookery co-constitute and valorise one another, and how gendered expressions of culinary stewardship have become underscored by the persistent imaginary of the 'cocinera tradicional' [traditional female cook]. The article centres on the mutual dependency of two case studies: renowned Mexican chef Enrique Olvera and the popular YouTube channel host of 'De mi rancho a tu cocina', Doña Ángela.
Polish Journal for American Studies 7 (2013): 161-177. http://paas.org.pl/pjas/pjas-archive/
2012
This Master's thesis elucidates the importance of cooking manuals and recipe collections published by the Sección Femenina de la Falange (Women’s Section of the Falange, 1934-1977) during the Franco Dictatorship (1939-1975) in Spain. The organization emphasized its dedication to pursuing women’s interests to the regime and practiced fairly substantial autonomy from the Franco regime in communicating feminine ideals and social reform to the Spanish public. Recipes and cooking instruction provided the organization a unique way to access Spanish homes and reform the quotidian habits of Spanish women. The Sección Femenina created an ideal for Spanish womanhood yet tried accommodated its femininity for individual variation of class, regional origin, and age. An investigation of cooking publications provides new insight to how the organization worked within the space prescribed by the Franco regime in hopes of reforming Spanish women, the home, and society.
Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies, 2018
working-class housewife, kills her contemptuous husband with a hambone in Pedro Almodóvar's film What Have I Done to Deserve This!! (¿Qué he hecho yo para merecer esto!!, 1984), we are left with a great sense of liberation despite the conflicting experiences of desolation and humor. This murderous image is far removed from more familiar images, where women, cooking, and kitchens are an essential part of the narration. In such films women are at ease within kitchen walls; they sing, cook, and are satisfied watching their loved ones enjoying the food they prepared with endearment. On occasion, they also seduce with food and make love in and near the kitchen after a meal presented with care. Food is beautifully photographed in well-lit scenes that are ravishingly composed and brightly colored, appealing to haptic and olfactory senses. Considering that viewers typically associate cooking and women with positive emotions, what might have prompted Almodóvar to portray food as a weapon (different from poison) and the protagonist as a husband killer? 1 Why use fluorescent and gloomy lighting to illuminate (or better, to conceal) scrawny food, in stark contrast to beauty shots of food in most films? And why would such a murderous ending evoke a strong sense of Abstract: This article analyzes the symbolic importance of food in Pedro Almodóvar's film What Have I Done to Deserve This!! (¿Qué he hecho yo para merecer esto!!, 1984) vis-à-vis the notorious icon, la madre maruja (the Spanish housewife and mother). It argues that food is rhetorically invoked in Almodóvar's film to organize cultural politics around gender in Spain after the almost forty-year dictatorship of Francisco Franco. What Have I Done is considered by many to be Almodóvar's best work and it is also regarded as an indispensable film, not only within his filmography but in the history of Spanish cinema. The film offers a radical departure from mainstream cinematographic images of women and food. Examining the film's use of food provides an invaluable source for the study of social conflicts and anxieties around gender, inherited from a troubled past.
Food and Foodways, 2011
1998
This work explores how people talk about food. My original problem was to find how the idea of a cultural group one may see as comprised of "Mexican Americans" may or may not be complicated by a regional comparison (of rural Hispanos in Colorado and New Mexico and urban Mexicans and Mexican Americans in Philadelphia). The main question I asked myself in this exploration (as well as asked field consultants) was: How does food play a role in the enactment of self-definition? Out of a comparison of over 30 rural and urban food narratives gathered during fieldwork in both regions emerged the interesting link between food, place, and culture. These food narratives demonstrated a sense of place, a topophilia enacted through talking about food in one's life. The men and women interviewed for this thesis use location and space to define and characterize (as well as to perform) the role of food in their lives, an action I call "performative mapping." My conclusion was...
2019
Food production-from growing corn to consuming tortillas-provides ways to learn accepted norms of villages in Quintana Roo, Mexico. This work investigates the semiotic nature of food, particularly the way in which the habitus surrounding the tortilla illuminates hegemonic forces structuring gender norms and traditional indigenous identity in Senor, Quintana Roo, Mexico. This paper examines interactions surrounding the tortilla in an extended family. Each member is at different stages of their lives and each is defined and discussed by their food habits whether through their ability to produce acceptable tortillas, their rejection of traditional foods, or their incorporation of new foods using the tortilla as a mediating substance. This article proposes ways of seeing the tortilla through Bourdieu's ideas of habitus, doxy, orthodoxy and heterodoxy that allow researchers to view the tortilla not so much as a food item but as a signifier of gender, marriageability, consanguinity and unity as well as an vehicle for rebellion against traditional gender norms and stereotypes of indigeneity.
2022
The kitchen space has often been read as the ultimate arena for women’s manifold repression, discomfiture, and gendered labour. This article aims to evaluate the nature of the kitchen space through the analysis of movies, which give a significant amount of visibility to the kitchen space. The arguments investigated in this article are laid out in two ways: one, to re-assess the stereotypical notions about the mundane space as prevalent in the literature, and two, to problematise the space and understand it from multiple perspectives and dimensions. We consider these two arguments while conducting a textual analysis and thematic network analysis of two movies, Julie and Julia (2009) and The Lunchbox (2013) for such an assessment, because of the many facets of the kitchen space that are underlined in their narratives. We evaluate the twin concepts of emancipation and emasculation visible in kitchen or food work through Abarca’s “culinary epistemology”. The difference between how the t...
This article examines constitutive elements of contemporary domestic cooking practices among women who live in the urban area of Cruzeiro do Sul, Acre, Brazil. We conducted semi-structured interviews with 16 self-identified women and mothers, who cook at home at least once a day. Here, we offer an in-depth analysis of our qualitative data, having coded our interviews with attention to the elements of cooking practices (i.e., understandings, procedures, engagements, materials, competencies, and meanings). Our findings reveal that cooking practices are not only gendered but also play a vital part in the construction and affirmation of these Brazilian women's identity, as indicated by how they negotiate elements of their domestic culinary practices regarding financial availability (materials), time availability (procedures), sociocultural gender norms (competences), and aspirations and personal desires (understandings). Read from a feminist perspective, we conclude that tensions surrounding the performance of femininity occurred when buying food at the supermarket or participating in the practice of "comprar fiado" in small neighborhood markets; preparing menus to meet familial preferences; preparing meals quickly and with little effort; offering the best foods to her children and husband; and showing affection and appreciation to those they feed.
Revista del CESLA. International Latin American Studies Review, (24), 2019: 3-28 , 2019
Through multi-sited fieldwork carried out in 2011 and 2014-17 in central Oaxaca and an analysis of secondary sources, this paper scrutinizes the rise of a culinary celebrity, Zapotec cook Abigail Mendoza Ruíz of Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca, in the broader context of a Mexican cultural politics of food as heritage. Focusing on food-related biography this essay reveals vernacular dynamics of heritagization of native foodways and the role renowned female cooks (cocineras) have played in this process. I scrutinize negotiations and contestations as well as open conflicts related to the representation of heritage, the politics and rights between different actors engaged over the years in (re)constructing a social imagery of ethnic female cooking for the benefits of the tourism industry, and, more broadly, state attempts at re-branding Mexico as a safe gastronomic destination. Resumen: A través de un trabajo de campo multi-situado realizado en 2011 y 2014-17 en la región central de Oaxaca y del análisis de fuentes secundarios, este texto analiza el surgimiento de una celebridad culinaria, la cocinera zapoteca Abigail Mendoza Ruíz de Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca, en el contexto más amplio de la política cultural mexicana de la comida como patrimonio. Centrarme en la biografía relacionada con la alimentación me permite revelar las dinámicas vernáculas de la patrimonialización de las prácticas alimentarias-culinarias nativas y el papel que han desempeñado en este proceso las cocineras de renombre. Escudriño las negociaciones y las disputas, así como los conflictos abiertos sobre las representaciones del patrimonio, la política y los derechos entre los
Journal of Latina Critical Feminism, 2018
Diálogo, 2015
An examination of the interaction of foodways with personal history, collective memory, and identity formation, through the food-centered life histories of two Mexican women, first generation immigrants living in the U.S. Discusses espacios de convivencia, social relations orchestrated on women's terms, the centrality of corn in the household's diet (and changes due to the implementation of new technologies), and the significance of festive meals in relation to personal identity, to draw conclusions on women's agency in preserving collective memory and knowledge through foodways. Includes Chicana feminist theories on women's spaces and ways of knowing.
Culture <html_ent glyph="@amp;" ascii="&"/> Agriculture, 2006
On the streets of Mexico City and Toluca, "Marias" (indigenous women) sell handmade tortillas, tacos, and tlacoyos (dough with filling) using maize of varying colors (blue, green, pink or violet, and white) harvested from farmlands near these cities. This phenomenon is to a great extent a nationalistic nostalgia for "authentic" Mexican food by middle and upper social classes. It is also part of a sociocultural crossbreeding process that allows promoting multiple identities before the imposition of the market-controlling state and the homogenization of the consumption of the above-mentioned food. One of the aims of this article is to demonstrate that this nostalgia is one of the reactions to the globalization process. I also attempt to show how this nostalgia reactivates indigenous-farmer subsistence strategies, whose main characters are women, who cultivate, prepare and sell such "authentic" meals.
Social Anthropology , 2021
Heritage politics can transform a dish, a cuisine or a meal into the emblem of a nation, a region or a community. A cultural and economic driver, culinary heritage has revealed the opportunities that actors can draw out of cultural essentialism, and the commercial exploitation that this can lead to. However, we know less about the consequences culinary heritage has in the lives of local communities and individuals concerned with it, in particular the most humble or vulnerable, nor the resulting modes of action-whether adoption, appropriation, rejection or indifference-it might provoke within and among these populations. This eth-nographic study redresses this imbalance by giving voice to one of the symbols of current food politics in Mexico: indigenous female cooks. Their narratives evidence how practices of heritage deploy (food) cultures-and the people related to them-in programmatic, coercive fashions by building on notions and concepts of prospection, empowerment and audit culture. In villages, culinary heritage not only catalyses contradictions and tensions among women, which manifest in feelings of envy and injustice and decreased social cohesion; it also prompts changed opportunities that lead to resistance, new sociabilities and cooperation.
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