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2021, Materials
KnE Engineering
This research work aims to study the influence of the fabrics in the wear performance of clothing. For this, an experimental work was developed with two fabric samples having the same weight/m2, one single and another double, and a jacket prototype. Through a comparative analysis of the mechanical properties, very interesting results was obtained in the evaluation and characterization of the two fabrics performance in designing the same jacket, namely the drape and the corresponded aesthetic fabrics behaviours during wear. The structural characteristics and mechanical properties of each fabric were introduced into Marvelous Designer Version 8 software to simulate the virtual draping of fabrics in a skirt. The analysis of the drape profile of each fabric given by the software and the drape of the real fabrics evaluated in laboratory indicates, coherently, that the double fabric falls less than the single, but in a more harmonious way, what evidence the close links between technology ...
Proceedings of the 6th International Conference on 3D Body Scanning Technologies, Lugano, Switzerland, 27-28 October 2015, 2015
Virtual garments are expected to break a fresh ground for textile and apparel industry. When flawless virtual garments on virtual models are achieved, this triumph will hopefully put an end to costly prototype production and pave the way for shopping apparel online without any concerns. OptiTex is a CAD program that enables fashion designers to create their patterns and garments in a 3D form. This program allows user to insert body measurements to obtain the virtual model. 3D scanned body images can be also exported to OptiTex to achieve garment simulations on realistic body shapes. Even though 3D scanned body models are identically with the real body shape, the simulated garments are not that realistic yet. One of the underlying reasons is that, allocation of the garment on the avatar depends on the drape of the garment which is strongly correlated to fabric's mechanical properties. Fabrics are non-linear, non-homogeneous, viscoelastic structures which makes them very complicated to identify. On the contrary to many other materials, fabrics are subjected to very low loads such as gravity, body motions, skin frictions and fabrics own internal frictions. In this research, bending rigidity, shear rigidity, extension, compression of three compositionally same woven fabrics (53% polyester/ 43% wool, 4% elastane; plain weave) are measured by Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) system. Drape ratio is another important fabric parameter which gives information about the formability of the fabric in real and virtual environment. "Cusick Drapemeter" is used to calculate drape ratio and number of drape nodes and amplitudes of the test fabrics. Finally real drape behaviors of these fabrics on a circular plate are compared with their virtual representations in OptiTex program in terms of drape ratios, node numbers and amplitudes. This study helps to understand how different fabrics drape on virtual avatars which can be provided from a 3D body scanner. At the end, the aim is to increase the interaction of garment and body model in virtual environment and obtain perfectly realistic representations of a virtual garment.
Journal of Textiles, Coloration and Polymer Science
owadays, the era of virtual fashion and simulation is of prime importance in clothing technology. Virtual fashion necessitates the accuracy of the virtual garment product. On the contrary, the physical sampling trials are time and material-consuming. Herein, we suggest a method for the fashion designer to visualize the drape coefficient value of the fabric using virtual garment products, to help the designer produce an identical virtual piece of the actual product. This method is based on the fabric drape coefficient test, as the drape coefficient reflects all fabric characteristics. In this work, several trials were conducted virtually to measure the validity of the capability test, and to correlate it with a virtual standard. Three different fabrics, cotton, polyester, and cotton polyester blend (50/50), were used in this study. The physical parameters were investigated following the CLO3D software standard method.The assessment of the final form of garment appearance must be referred to as values to avoid the conflict of human judgment. Therefore, the drape coefficient of fabrics was measured (using shadow analysis), in both real and virtual phases, and the relationship between them was assigned. Four types of flared skirts were used to assemble the fabrics based on the angle of construction, and three skirt lengths were used virtually. The skirts were simulated using CLO3D software and the skirt's hemline formation shape was analyzed, to find the most descriptive flared skirt to the drape coefficient value.
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2018
Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to compare real fabric drape images and virtual fabric drape images created by a commercial software. To achieve an in-depth comparison, actual and virtual drape shape properties were considered under three categories: drape area, number of nodes and shape of folds. The results of this research are expected to be useful to improve the reality and accuracy of fabric and garment. Design/methodology/approach – Five different fabrics were selected for this study. Fabrics’ mechanical properties were tested by fabric assurance for simple testing method, while drape properties were measured by a Cusick drape meter. A commercial garment simulation was used to generate virtual fabric drapes. Real fabric drape images and virtual fabric drape images were analyzed by an image analysis software and results were used to calculate drape properties. Regression analysis was performed to compare real fabric drape and virtual fabric drape properties. Findings – Differences between real fabric drape and virtual fabric drape were stated clearly. Simulation software was found to be insufficient to reflect drape area. However, simulations were quite successful corresponding to the number of nodes. Only one simulation had +2 nodes than its actual counterpart. This study showed that area and node shape representations of simulation software should be improved while node numbers are sufficiently represented. Research limitations/implications – There are alternative 3D garment simulation software available to the fashion business. All these companies are working on to improve their simulation reality and accuracy. Some of them are also offering various equipment to measure the fabric properties. In this study, Optitex 3D Suite was selected as the simulation software due to several reasons as explained in this paper. However, other simulation programs might also be employed to perform virtual fabric drapes. Furthermore, in this study, the drape images of five woven fabrics were compared. The fabric selection was done according to a pre-test and consequently similar fabrics were determined to be the subject of the study. However, the more the number of the fabrics, the better the comparison and eventually the better the assessment of simulation success. Therefore, it is prospected to test more fabrics with versatile fabric properties for further studies. Originality/value – Drape shape was observed from three perspectives: drape area, node numbers, and node shapes. Dealing the problem from these perspectives provided an in-depth comparison of real and virtual drapes. In this study, standard deviation of peak angles was used to explain node distribution that is new to the literature to the authors’ knowledge.
Industria Textila
Optimization of fabric drape measurement based on 3D model Drapability is an important characteristic of fabric appearance, mainly correlates to its stiffness. It is evaluated objectively with a dominant indicator, drape coefficient (DC). Drape coefficient is based on the two-dimensional projection-area of three-dimensional (3D) draped sample. In this study, three dimensional (3D) drape-model is evaluated and a new basis of the area is revealed with slice function. The proposed area was calculated using a horizontal plane that cut the 3D drape-model (slice curve) just above the highest point of actual boundary-curve. Modified drape coefficient (MDC) was compared with DC against bending stiffness. The results demonstrate that the bending stiffness has better conformance with MDC than that of DC. This implies that MDC is more effective in evaluating fabric drapability.
Journal of Textiles, Coloration and Polymer Science
The fabric digitization is the way to input a material to the 3D software as data. The priority of the virtual fashion design in the garment industry field makes the accuracy of the fabric characteristics composed the garment piece is the first, in the virtual environment. Garment assembling for samples purposes consumes times and materials. In this work, the teamwork suggest a way to conclude the fabric characteristics in a garment piece. The method is a trial to simulate the garment fabric draped in the human body. Six fabrics were collected from the Egyptian market randomly, from different material and weights, they are categorized in 2 structures groups. The under study fabrics were tested by the FAST system, and their own fabric drape coefficient were measured traditionally. For the research procedures, the fabrics were digitized to CLO3D software through its standard procedures. This study was established virtually using flared skirt as fabric samples. The flared skirt sample was assembled through angle flared skirt assembled method in two angles 180 0 and 90 0 , with 54cm and 67 cm of length. In CLO3D software the virtual assembled flared skirts were captured and rendered in three different poses (front, side and bottom view). All the simulation properties and render values are unified to all the captured skirts. A virtual dummy was used as holder object for the fabric sample in form of the flared skirt. Finally, the study concluded that the flared skirt can be used to a common method can be used to asses and to digitize the textile fabrics to 3d garment simulation software.
2007 10th IEEE International Conference on Computer-Aided Design and Computer Graphics, 2007
Cloth simulation and fabric measurement are tightly linked areas of research. In order to obtain high quality animations of dressed models, the properties of the simulated garment must first be evaluated in an accurate and adapted way. As cloth is a very complex, isotropic material, the evaluation of its properties is difficult to achieve, and various approaches exist. Depending on the design of the simulation engine, the measurements will be done differently, so that the outputted parameters match the inputs required by the simulator. Various issues must be considered, and depending on the complexity of the simulated garments, tradeoffs must be made in order to reconcile the real features of the cloth (stitches, layers…) and the computational capacities of the simulator (numerical integration, collision detection…)
International Journal
In this paper we propose an intelligent method for identifying several mechanical parameters of woven fabric. The mechanical fabric characterization requires several expensive experimental tests. An alternative to overcome this problem is to use an inverse identification based on simulation of drape test using the finite element method combined with a learning artificial neural networks. To do this, a database containing a number of fabrics characterized is developed. This database will be used to train the neural network to predict the mechanical properties of textile material from drape's properties. In this way, the mechanical properties of fabric will be identified by simulating the drape test. By comparing drape properties obtained numerically with those obtained experimentally; the elastic properties will be adjusted in the numerical model. The process is repeated until there is little difference between the simulated and actual drape. This approach is tested on several cases and the results are convincing for a wide range of fabrics.
Journal of Technical Education Science, 2022
Softness is an essential key in designing, processing and using a lot of textile products. This paper is to approach fabric softness based on an experimental model of determining drape coefficient (i.e., a ratio of projected area of fabric sample to its undraped area) through analysis of digital images obtained from pixel histogram on a graphic software (PTS). Such investigations help to not only quantitatively evaluate but also significantly enhance accuracy for measurements of fabric softness owing to advances in digital image processing technology. Moreover, as comparing to previously conventional methods of calculating projected area such as tracing paper and edge contour, this model presented many advantages, especially time saving. Particularly, the results of drape coefficient obtained from cotton (CT) and polyester (PE) fabrics measured by this model clarified the affected factors on structural characteristics for both textile fiber and textile fabric. The experimental measu...
Modeling of Woven Fabrics Geometry and Properties
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2004
The computer aided engineering and the respective computer aided design tools compose a modern mechanical modelling environment for the textile materials. The numerical mechanical models of the textile structures are a strong tool for the in-depth study of the mechanical properties and the behaviour of the textiles. The precision of these models in terms of their accuracy in representing the exact geometry of the real textile structures is the fundamental factor affecting the overall success of the idealisation. This paper discusses older traditional analytical models (Peirce, Saw-tooth, Kemp) as well as some variations of these fundamental models. Their numerical solutions are successfully compared to the experimental measurements of the yarn longitudinal deformation parameters using microscopic and digital image processing techniques. The results of the analytical models are compared with the actual measurements and the more precise models are indicated.
Tekstilna industrija, 2020
Modeling virtual garments is known as a very laborious process, which includes designing 2D patterns, positioning, and sewing them in 3D, performing a physically-based simulation, and then iteratively adjusting patterns and parameters, repeating the process until the expected effect is achieved. The aim of this paper is to make a 2D pattern and 3D simulation of a men's shirt. First, the computer construction of the men's shirt model was made on a sketch-based, i.e. a 2D pattern is developed. Secondly, 2D pattern is developed by flattening 3D surface patches, then a 3D fine garment is formed directly based on the information of sewing relations and correspondence between 3D surfaces and 2D patterns. The method is able to design 3D garments and 2D patterns efficiently and accurately.
Textile Science and Economy 14th International Scientific-professional conference, 2024
Pattern design for clothing, its production, and marketing have all seen radical changes thanks to the adoption of CAD (computer-aided design) software by the apparel industries. The CAD system's significance has grown since the fashion industry changes constantly due to quick shifts in consumer preferences and technology development. These systems are essential resources for contemporary clothing producers because they increase output and design accuracy and drastically cut costs and time-to-market. So, in the modern industrialized business, the use of CAD in all types of industries is noticeable, whereas, in the textile and apparel industry is categorized as CAD for fabric design, CAD for apparel design, CAD for pattern making, CAD for cutting room operations etc. This study aims to assess and present the importance of CAD software applications, related to pattern and marker creation, prototyping, and virtual simulation of clothing and fittings.
Proceedings of the 3rd international conference on Computer graphics and interactive techniques in Australasia and South East Asia - GRAPHITE '05, 2005
One of the major challenges in Computer Graphics concerns the 3D representation and physically-based simulation of garments. In our research, we are working closely with the textile industry, investigating three different classes of problems. First, we aim at developing techniques and methods for cloth simulation specifically aimed at the Web3D context. Second, we are defining a cross-application data exchange format among the different CAD systems and applications used in the textile industry, including the additional information needed to support 3D simulations. Third, we are implementing a tool that complements traditional textile CAD systems (which are based on 2D graphics), allowing the user to automatically obtain VRML-based 3D previews of the garment (for evaluating garment designs and also easily publishing them on the Web). This paper illustrates the results we have achieved in these three directions.
Textile Research Journal, 2012
The paper presents the Sylvie 3D Drape Tester developed for fabric drape measurements and its special auxiliary device that exerts dynamical impact on fabrics during draping. Also, a new draping characteristic, namely the Drape Unevenness Factor, was defined to describe the evenness of the shape of draped textile material numerically. Three special cotton fabrics woven exclusively for this work differing only in twist direction of their weft yarns were used for analysis and effect of twist directions in a woven fabric and influence of the applied dynamical impact on drape test results were analyzed. Based on the test results, the paper also analyses the process of drape formation offering proposals for modification of fabric behavior models to contribute for better fabric simulations.
2014
The aim is to analyze the problems arising in geometry modelling and simulating the deformation behaviour of pile structure fabrics, as well as to propose different approaches for solving them. The SolidWorks CAD system has been used for fabrics geometry modelling, while the ANSYS Workbench software product, using the finite elements method, has been used for the simulation of its deformation behaviour. A concept has been created and simulation models have been developed for terry fabrics in different stages of processing. The models obtained are highly accurate in terms of geometry, but need some refinement of parameters determining the deformation behaviour. An analysis of the influence of these parameters has been made and some recommendations have been given as to the proper tuning of the model. The problems arising in modelling complex weaving structures and in simulating their deformation behaviour have been discussed. The creation of an accurate geometric and mechanical model of a terry fabric aims to predict its behaviour, especially in compression and assessing the change of softness during softening treatment.
Materials Science Forum, 2008
A new equipment for measuring the draping characteristics of static cloth is presented in the paper. In contrast with Kawabata Evaluation System 3D geometrical data of the sample are captured from photo images. Based on a mathematical reconstruction of geometry, and drape coefficients and mechanical parameters are evaluated upon the geometrical model. The computer controlled equipment moves a round table positioned in the centre providing the natural pleating of fabric for the measuring. The core part of the equipment is a computer moved frame. The sample is scanned by laser-beams. Lasers light the cross section curves of the sample on different levels. There are four cameras on the frame taking the pictures of cross section curves in different levels. 3D geometry is reconstructed upon the pictures. A mass, spring and damping element system is the basis of the cloth simulator. Springs are assumed to be linear, while damps are proportional to the velocity. The physics engine running the simulator calculates vertex positions at a time based on interaction forces with neighbouring vertices, including stretch, bend and shear forces. Collision of the cloth model with the model of the underlying object is performed and handled in each time step. To evaluate the influence of the individual parameters, a series of simulations was performed. For the real cloth samples, a range of cross-section curves is captured, digitalized and interpolated by Fourier series. The same Fourier coefficients are determined for the cloth model as a function of simulation parameters. The actual simulation parameters are defined by the minimum of the difference between the modelled and the measured geometry.
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 2016
Drape behaviour of virtual clothing can be expressed numerically using the technical parameters such as tension, stretch and pressure. This led to the development of an objective approach to analysing virtual fit of clothing, which has been discussed in this paper in context of a men's shirt by varying the ease at the chest area and changing the lengths. Avatars morphed with the measurements of M-sized British men derived from body scan data were utilised to simulate two different sets of pattern pieces (each set comprising 31 pairs of front and back panels with varying ease from 0.0 to 15 cm at the chest area at an interval of 0.5 cm) of sleeveless men's shirt within two different CAD systems with consideration of FAST data of fabrics. Findings indicated that the change in tension, stretch and pressure followed a definite pattern when the ease at chest area was decreased or increased within the pattern pieces keeping the fabric properties unchanged. This has opened a new avenue for a more effective application of 3D simulation tools within the fashion-product-development process.
Machines
Applications of 3D printing in the fashion industry have continued to attract interest from academia and industry in order to improve and add functionalities to products. Among these applications, an interesting one is 3D printing on textile fabric. Composite structures created by 3D printing and textile fabric change a drape by improving or worsening its appearance. The scope of this work is to evaluate the effect of various 3D printed geometries on textile fabric regarding fabric drapes. The drape coefficient of the created composite structure is evaluated using a drape tester built according to EN ISO 9073-9. The results taken are compared with an algorithm developed for determining drape parameters and 3D form representation using color digital images and their image histograms. The measured values of the drape coefficient are close, with a minimal difference, up to 4%. The 3D printed patterns show a significant effect on the drape coefficient of textile fabrics by depicting ano...